Only that, for a moment, it reminded them of a world that seemed to have vanished.… Rain hammered the aluminum exhaust ducts above the alley behind the old textile market in Shijiazhuang. Food delivery scooters slid through puddles glowing green under malfunctioning LED signs. The alley smelled of frying oil, wet cardboard, disinfectant, and the faint sulfuric odor of coal dust drifting from freight yards beyond the elevated rail line. At the very end of the alley was a kitchen with no signboard. The delivery apps listed it under three different names to game the recommendation algorithms. On one platform it was “Northern Home Noodles.” On another, “Lao Zheng Chicken Rice.” On a third, simply “Family Stir Fry No. 7.” The kitchen belonged to a fifty-three-year-old woman named Yu Fen. Nobody called her “chef” anymore. Ten years earlier, before the pandemic, Yu Fen had operated a legitimate restaurant on Zhongshan Road. Dur...